The Carnival of Verona, also known as "Bacanàl del Gnoco", has roots that date back to 1531 and is considered one of the oldest carnivals in Europe. Every year, usually in February, the city comes alive with celebrations that involve the entire community. The highlight of the Carnival is the parade of traditional masks and allegorical floats, which takes place on "Venerdì Gnocolar". On this day, according to tradition, it is customary to enjoy homemade gnocchi. Every year, the "Papà del Gnoco", a symbolic figure of the Carnival, is elected from among the Veronese who apply. His appointment is celebrated with an official ceremony at the Palazzo della Gran Guardia, and the winner receives, as a sign of recognition, a large plate of gnocchi. Each neighborhood of Verona celebrates its own Carnival with parades and other local initiatives. What makes the Verona Carnival unique compared to others in Italy is that the masks are chosen directly by the population, making the event particularly popular and attended.
Brief historical notes
The origins of the Verona Carnival date back to the late Middle Ages. During a terrible famine caused by a sudden flood of the Adige River and the simultaneous sacking of the city by the Lanzichenecchi troops, the bakeries increased the price of bread. This triggered a revolt by the population of San Zeno, who rose up against the bakers in 1531. The danger was averted thanks to the appointment of some men who, at their own expense, took charge of the sustenance of the poorest part of the population. Among the members of this commission was also Tommaso da Vico, a doctor living in the San Zeno district, creator and founder of the “Bacanal del Gnoco”. Subsequently, Tommaso left a legacy in his will establishing that, every year, on the Friday before the beginning of Lent, known as “Venardi Consolàr”, food should be purchased and distributed to the population.
His Majesty: "Papà del Gnoco"
The “Papà del Gnoco” is the central figure of the Verona Carnival. Represented as a plump, elderly man with red cheeks and a long white beard, he wears a hazelnut brocade suit, a cape and a red top hat decorated with bells, as well as white leather shoes. Considered the king of the “Bacanal del Gnoco”, he carries a scepter consisting of a large golden fork, on which a potato gnocchi is threaded. He moves on a mule, recalling the tradition in which gnocchi were often accompanied by “pastissada de caval”, a horse meat stew. During the parade, together with his servants, the "gobeti" or "macaroni", he distributes sweets to children and portions of gnocchi to adults. Historically originating from the San Zeno district, the "Papà del Gnoco" was elected from among the inhabitants of the district itself. Today, however, anyone with Veronese origins can apply for the role. On Election Sunday, all citizens are invited to participate in the vote and, as a reward, receive a plate of gnocchi with tomato sauce.
“Gnocchi del Bacanal”, the main dish of Carnival
On "Venerdì Gnocolar", the last Friday of Carnival, the doctor Tommaso da Vico distributed simple ingredients to the needy, such as bread, flour, butter, wine and cheese, enough to prepare a hearty and easy-to-make dish: gnocchi. Since then, every year, the population of Verona gathers in front of the Church of San Zeno to enjoy a hearty dish. Originally, gnocchi were prepared only with flour and water, served with "pastissada de caval", a horse meat stew. They did not yet contain potatoes, which would arrive after the discovery of America. Today, gnocchi are made with flour, potatoes, eggs and salt, cooked in large pots and served with tomato sauce, continuing a tradition that is renewed every year.
For those who want to experience an event that combines history, culture, fun and good food, the Carnival of Verona is definitely the ideal destination!
